The Spectator

 

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Written by Jonathan Ray

Any so-called ‘working lunch’ with Chloe Ferrari, C-in-C of the Spectator Club, and Laura Taylor, director of Private Cellar, needs to be approached with caution.

It’s not that we don’t get any work done – remarkably, we do – but these guys know their wines (Laura is nearly a Master of Wine and Chloe is Principal of the Spectator Wine School) and their enquiring thirsts know no bounds.

Only last week in Brighton, after lunch at Wild Flor and post-prandials in Alphabet, Patio and, I think, the Plotting Parlour, it went a bit awry. Somehow, I found myself in Haywards Heath in the dark having thought I was simply walking home to my crib in Skid Row-on-Sea. I genuinely can’t remember how or why.

Anyway, before said diversion, we unanimously agreed on the delectability of the following Private Cellar wines. I know them all so well, having visited each of the estates with the Spectator Wine Club over recent months, and I just wanted to share the joy.

The 2025 Mehofer Grüner Veltliner (1) from the village of Neudegg, about an hour north-west of Vienna, is so lovely – fresh, lively, crisp and truly food-friendly. Our visit here is the highlight of our Austrian tour. Everyone falls in love, not only with the organic, sustainably farmed/produced wines, but also with the Mehofer family, winzers here since 1709. £13.20 down from £14.50.

The 2024 Valserrano Rioja Blanco (2) from Bodegas de la Marquesa in Rioja Alavesa is another treat. Made from old vine Viura fermented first in steel and then in oak, it has both freshness and depth, with touches of citrus, cream and spice. It’s akin to a decent white burgundy but at half the price. £15.50 down from £16.75.

A blend of 95 per cent Tempranillo and 5 per cent Mazuelo, aged in French and American oak, the 2021 Valserrano Rioja Crianza (3) is the equivalent red, full of plums, damsons, vanilla and spice, with a typically savoury finish. The 60ha estate is run by the fourth and fifth generation of the founding de Simón family and they laid on a memorable tasting when we visited in March. £16.50 down from £17.50.

Oh, goodness, I love the 2019 Ch Tayet Cuvée Prestige (4), a Merlot-based Bordeaux Supérieur from Macau in the Médoc, crafted by the most gifted of winemakers and most charming of men, Jean-Michel Garcion. It’s wines like this that make me love my job so. From a small parcel found behind a pillar in the winery’s cellar, it’s the last of the 2019. Grab it. £16.65 down from £17.95.

Back to Austria and to the 2023 Mehofer Pinot Noir Neudegg (5). Here in Zweigelt country, Stephan Mehofer coaxes 1ha of Pinot into producing something glorious, and those on our recent trip were bowled over, clamouring for refills. Full of lush strawberries and sour cherries with the silkiest of tannins, it should be everyone’s go-to Pinot. £19.80 down from £20.98.

Jean-Michel, the genius behind Wine 4, is also responsible for the belter that is 2020 Ch. Tour Baladoz (6), a Grand Cru St. Emilion we’ll be knocking back en magnum on next week’s Clays, Claret, Cognac, Cigars, Chaos & Carnage Cruises down the Thames. I hope you’re coming. If not, why not? J-MG will be there grinning shyly as we all fall for his wine’s charms. £31 down from £32.78.

We’ll be tucking into his 2021 Ch. Haut Breton Larigaudière (7) too, en Jeroboam no less. In complete contrast to the above, this is Cabernet- rather than Merlot-dominant and, although young, it’s in perfect condition with rich, spicy dark fruit and the longest of finishes. Do ask Laura about large formats for the three clarets as she has a few tucked away especially for us. £33 down from £34.98.

Finally, the Henri Chauvet Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Champagne (8), about which I never tired of banging on. I can’t help it, it’s so damn good, one of my all-time favourite champagnes. A blend of hand-picked and hand-riddled Pinots Noir and Meunier, it’s as stylish and moreish as they come. £32.60.

Wines 1-5 are offered in unmixed dozens and wines 6-8 in unmixed half-dozens. Delivery, as ever, is free.

To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.com/tastings.

WHITE

2025 Mehofer Grüner Veltliner, 10.5%vol: £158.40 down from £174

2024 Valseranno Rioja Blanco, 13%vol: £186 down from £201

RED

2021 Valserrano Rioja Crianza, 14%vol: £198 down from £210

2019 Ch Tayet Cuvée Prestige, 14%vol: £199.80 down from £215.40

2023 Mehofer Pinot Noir Neudegg, 13.5%vol: £237.60 down from £251.76

2020 Ch. Tour Baladoz, 14.5%vol: £186 down from £196.68*

2021 Ch. Haut Breton Larigaudière, 13.5%vol: £198 down from £209.88*

SPARKLING

Henri Chauvet Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Champagne, 12.5%vol: £195.60*

*=6 bottles

 

Visit www.privatecellar.co.uk/spectator
or call 01353 721 999

Offer ends 24 October 2026
Private Cellar's terms and conditions apply. EO&E

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Our Selected Wines

Grüner Veltliner Wagram, Weingut Mehofer - Organic (Screwcap closure) 

Grüner Veltliner Wagram, Weingut Mehofer - Organic (Screwcap closure) 

White | Austria | Wagram | 11% | Dry, crisp white

The Wagram region has now been awarded its own protected denomination so whilst the
labels of Mehofer’s Klassik range have changed, the wine in the bottle remains its joyful self with its juicy white stone fruit, lightly spiced hints of white pepper and a distant creamy note. This is really fresh and, with just 11% abv, oh so easy to drink.

“Pale sandy yellow; aromatic and citrussy with florality and white pepper. Fresh enough for an aperitif; a versatile food wine that will match with white meats, soft cheese or meaty white fish. Drinking nicely now, but can be cellared for greater complexity.” Tom Lewis, Substack

White | Austria | Wagram | 11% | Dry, crisp white
Valserrano Rioja Blanco, Bodegas de la Marquesa 

Valserrano Rioja Blanco, Bodegas de la Marquesa 

White | Spain | Rioja | 13% | Dry, crisp white

Pale in colour with a delicious nose of sherbety lemon fruit, a light tropical note and a distant touch of oak from barrel fermentation, this is fresh and juicy, tastily sapid and delicious either on its own or with food.

“White Rioja is still a bit of an unknown to many wine drinkers, which is not so surprising when you consider that white grape varieties account for less than 10 per cent of the region’s vineyards, but Rioja Blanco sales are rising as consumers around the world switch from red wines to white” Joanna Simon www.joannasimon.com

White | Spain | Rioja | 13% | Dry, crisp white
Valserrano Rioja Crianza, Bodegas de la Marquesa 

Valserrano Rioja Crianza, Bodegas de la Marquesa 

Red | Spain | Rioja | 14% | Full-bodied red

Spending 16 months in a combination of French and American oak to give it suppleness and a plummy, grilled note whilst retaining delicious freshness and spice.

Red | Spain | Rioja | 14% | Full-bodied red
Château Tayet, Cuvée Prestige, Bordeaux Supérieur 

Château Tayet, Cuvée Prestige, Bordeaux Supérieur 

Red | France | Bordeaux | 14% | Full-bodied red

The 2019 Tayet is a chip off the old block – big, joyful black fruits, supple and ripe with a good bite of tannin behind, eminently approachable now but clearly with the wherewithal to last as well. And don’t miss the bigger formats!

Red | France | Bordeaux | 14% | Full-bodied red
Pinot Noir Neudegg, Weingut Mehofer - Organic 

Pinot Noir Neudegg, Weingut Mehofer - Organic 

Red | Austria | Wagram | 14% | Lighter, fruitier red

All juicy red berry fruit, with hints of strawberry and even raspberry, with lovely supple tannins behind.

Take a trip to the beautiful vineyards and cellars of Neudeggerhof with the Mehofer family by watching this video.

“Another Pinot Noir but from an organic Austrian producer: very fragrant yet also with more weight than the Pinot above; pure, fragrant black cherry fruit – lovely (Private Cellar, £20.85.)” - Andy Neather, aviewfrommytable.

Red | Austria | Wagram | 14% | Lighter, fruitier red
Château Tour Baladoz, Grand Cru St Emilion 

Château Tour Baladoz, Grand Cru St Emilion 

Red | France | Bordeaux | 14.5% | Full-bodied red

Dense purple black with a nose of intense earthy black fruit, crushed and creamed, tactile with a lightly soured black fruit note. On the palate big black fruit, ripe and sweet with a hint mulberry, spiced and again tactile with hints of purple fruits plus a touch of cherryade going to a long, grilled, lush, smoky finish. Drink 2027 - 2036

Red | France | Bordeaux | 14.5% | Full-bodied red
Château Haut Breton Larigaudière, Margaux 

Château Haut Breton Larigaudière, Margaux 

Red | France | Bordeaux | 13.5% | Full-bodied red

Still very youthful with gallons of juicy black fruits, spiced and grilled, and it will age gloriously if given the chance – superb.

Red | France | Bordeaux | 13.5% | Full-bodied red
Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs, Henri Chauvet 

Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs, Henri Chauvet 

White | France | Champagne | 12.5% | Dry sparkling

Damien and Mathilde Chauvet's Blanc de Noirs is from a blend of Pinots Noir and Meunier, with a lovely depth of pure golden fruit, rich and intense, with a long, grilled finish. Sublime.

"This Pinot Noir and Meunier blend feels very true to the red grapes of Rilly-la-Montagne on the Montagne de Reims, crisply and carefully made, with notes of dried apple, plum and strawberry fruit before a nutty, peppery finish. There’s both breadth and freshness in this straightforward and recommendable grower cuvée. Drink 2025-2027." Tom Hewson, Decanter, August 2025

“I’ll start by admitting that after tasting 40 wines in four days, I cannot claim an expert’s palate. I preferred, for example, the slightly nutty Henri Chauvet Brut Blanc de Noirs (£29.95 in the UK) over Bollinger’s supposedly fabulous La Côte aux Enfants 2012 (£1,060 – yes, that’s per bottle).” Martin Vander Weyer, The Spectator July 2024

"The Chauvets make their wine in a very traditional manner and still riddle their bottles by hand in their chalk cellars. They only disgorge the wines when they need to prepare a shipment. Made from 90 per cent Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier, it is crisp, clean and fresh. There’s also a nice touch of toasty biscuit in there too, and a very fine mousse.” Jonathan Ray, Drink More Fizz!

"Want a soft moreish Champagne that sparkles way above its price point? Henri Chauvet’s Blanc de Noirs is a real palate pleaser. Tasted 2021" Martin Isark, Can I Eat It?

“Sometimes, though, only champagne will do, in which case it will either be my all-time favourite ‘grower’ champagne, Henri Chauvet Blanc de Noirs Brut NV..." Jonathan Ray, The Field, December 2023 edition.

“Henri Chauvet is a top-class grower champagne, making very pure, crisp wines from eight hectares in Rilly la Montagne, a premier cru village near Reims. Today it is owned and run by winemaker Damien Chauvet, the fourth generation of the same family, and his wife Mathilde. Five grams of sugar per litre here, added to the same percentages of the black grapes. The sugar amplifies the apple flavours, but for me it blocks out some of the minerality and terroir.” Will Smale @willsmale1

‘A cracking-value blend of Pinots Noir and Meunier with a lovely depth of golden fruit’ The Field, December 2025

White | France | Champagne | 12.5% | Dry sparkling