Burgundy 2022
~ 2022 Vintage report ~
The ‘dream year’ that made the difference
After several short vintages in Burgundy, culminating in the shocking frost of 2021, Burgundy’s wine growers felt vindicated to be granted a spectacular 2022, both from the point of view of the growing season and the resulting fruit, which was both plentiful and perfectly ripe. A dream year, to be followed by an equally bountiful 2023, so finally the cellars are full, with barrels right up to the ceiling in many places where previously there was just a single half row, and there are huge smiles aplenty.
The growing season:
A dry, mild winter meant that the vines started to stir in early April, around the same time as a polar air mass descended on northern Europe, threatening frost once more in Burgundy. Happily, the vines were suitably undeveloped and frost damage was very limited compared to recent vintages. The spring continued warm and relatively dry, with flowering around two weeks ahead of the average, under good conditions and presaging an early harvest.
Fine weather continued until the end of June when the weather broke with thunderstorms, along with some isolated hail outbreaks, followed by more good weather. There were several episodes of canicule, or heatwaves, in 2022; these are strictly defined as periods of three days or more with temperatures by day above 33C and, more importantly, nighttime temperatures remaining higher than 20C. Growers are, on the whole, happy with these hot periods as it means a low chance of disease, however they also raise the spectre of drought.
In 2022 some regions suffered from the lack of rain, with the vines shutting down waiting for cooler or rainier weather or until their grapes lost some of their water through evaporation, however showers in the middle of August meant that the fruit continued to ripen well right through to the end of the month, when many began harvesting clean, ripe fruit under fine, dry conditions. Yields were generous, so much so that Elsa Matrot said that the challenge was to clear the presses quickly enough to receive next batch of fruit – but she certainly wasn’t complaining!
Some domaines used their sorting tables to eliminate any dried berries, but otherwise the quality of the harvest meant that they were mostly left unused, and the resulting wines are delicious. Despite being a sunny vintage, the whites have a lovely bite of freshness without the rich, semi-tropical flavours found in the 2018s and 2019s, and alcohol levels are correct rather than elevated. The reds were a particular joy to taste. Given the weather and the heat, we expected to find densely coloured, big strapping wines but what we tasted was the polar opposite, fresh and racy with lovely, fully ripe tannins and great balance.
The market:
No vintage report would be complete without a brief comment on the state of the market. Demand for Burgundy remains unprecedented, particularly for the top whites and whilst supply has been short, prices have reflected the popularity of the wines. Very few growers have released their 2022 pricing as yet, but most are aiming to keep them around the same level as 2021, despite rising costs in all other sectors which we are all aware of from our daily lives. The best news is that there is plenty of wine to go around in 2022 and again in 2023, and that the wines are delicious – what a perfect combination!
Nicola Arcedeckne-Butler MW
November 2023
To discuss the vintage, learn more about the wines and for help in preparing your wish list, please call us on 01353 721 999 or contact your usual salesperson.
