Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Screwcap), Domaine Matrot 2023

Elsa Matrot was very frank in her assessment of the 2023 vintage, which she described as ‘incredible’ but with plenty of hard work to get it to the end, fully ripe and ready to harvest. After a successful flowering, there was a huge charge of grapes on the vines, compounded by every single flower becoming a viable grape, so even the little ‘shoulders’ of the main bunches, which often have mini bunches sticking out, ripened into fully formed fruit, increasing the potential yield significantly. At the Domaine, triage is done as and when required but rarely removing more than 3% of the crop, but in 2023 they removed some 25% of the fruit, targeting those clusters which had so many berries that the pips were still green which would have impacted the quality of the juice. As a result, remarkably, they have a slightly lower yield than 2022, but they are happy that it is for all the right qualitative reasons. Harvest took place over 17 days (far too long, according to Elsa, for her nerves to take!), from the beginning of September, and this year they reduced the temperature to cool the Pinot but didn’t allow it to do the usual 4-5 days of cold soak in order to maintain the fresh fruit flavours.

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