Bordeaux by numbers: 60 Appellations Contrôlées come together under the Bordeaux name, they cover 120,000 hectares of vines and are managed by 7,350 different châteaux or domaines, giving an average property size of just 16.5 hectares. For most people, the name Bordeaux conjures up images of photogenic castles in Pauillac or Margaux or tiny boutique properties in St Emilion and Pomerol, but the reality lies somewhere in between. The grand names do indeed form the backbone of the primeur releases each year, garnering more airplay in the process, however the Bordeaux bread and butter is much more humble, with the majority of wine being made by small growers in less lofty appellations at more everyday prices – destined for drinking rather than investment.

A wide range of vintages is available on the market at present, and some of the 2015s are already beginning to appear. Despite their youth, they are wonderfully dynamic wines, full-bodied but with supple tannins making them deceptively easy to drink whilst the 2014s are beginning to come out of their slightly awkward shell to show what made them so attractive as primeurs. The 2013 vintage was a shocker at many levels, with unripe fruit and ungenerous weather, but the few 2013s which did well are absolutely delicious. We have two, Tour Baladoz and Haut Breton Larigaudière, and they are drinking beautifully now – text book St Emilion and Margaux respectively, they represent really good value for money. 2012 and 2011 have both really come into their own, with the 2011 broader than the more linear, classic 2012.

Our selection of dry white Bordeaux remains focused on two of the most satisfying white wines in the area; Château Argadens, owned by the Sichel family of Château Palmer, is perfection in a glass and was one of Jane MacQuitty’s Top 100 Summer whites in The Times in 2018, whilst the Lune d’Argent from Clos des Lunes, made by Olivier Bernard, should be required drinking for anyone ambivalent about the virtues of white Bordeaux.