Australian wine made its name by being bold and brash – good quality but far from elegant. The last few years have, however, seen a complete volte face, seeing some wines that are so subtle you would be hard pushed to say that they came from the New World, let alone Australia. The bold style still exists, particularly in the more popular brands, but almost all of the smaller independent producers are moving towards precision and terroir-influenced wines, particularly those in the cooler regions rather that the hotter vineyards of south-eastern Australia. This year has seen Private Cellar plunge back into the Australian pool, after several years’ absence, with wines from McHenry Hohnen, the partnership between Murray McHenry and his brother-in-law David Hohnen – who bears no little responsibility for the craze for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, having been the founder of Cloudy Bay. Their Rocky Road wines – that’s the name of the vineyard, not the tea-time treat – are a brilliant combination of punchy Australian fruit and restrained classicism and they’re not to be missed.

This year has seen us join forces with a new grower in New Zealand, the Tutton family at Waipara West, to the north of Canterbury in the South Island. Running along the Waipara River, on north-facing stony terraces, the vineyards benefit from warm winds from the north-west and the gorgeous extended summers and autumns allow the fruit all-important hang-time to develop deep flavours and balance without any of the excessive green herbaceous flavours which can characterise New Zealand’s whites. All three of their wines are an exercise in restraint and elegance, from racy Sauvignon Blanc to juicy, vibrant Chardonnay and intense, stylish Pinot Noir.